My outfit library
I spent about 15 hours over a couple of weekends putting together a visual outfit library. It's a bit embarrassing to admit, but I got really into it. I'm posting it here because the format might be useful.
I'm 33, work in tech, and almost never need to dress formally. Two years ago, I wore the same black T-shirt and jeans everywhere. Then a friend dragged me to Massimo Dutti, and I bought a suede jacket on impulse. That was the gateway drug. I started reading Permanent Style, lurking on r/malefashionadvice, and watching far too many YouTube videos. Now I make spreadsheets about trousers.
I like the semi-casual end of the spectrum, polished enough to look intentional, relaxed enough that I don't seem overdressed at a coffee shop. I don't own a suit, and I probably should, but that's a problem for later.
One change made the biggest difference: I stopped thinking about shirts first and started with trousers. Pick the trousers, decide how formal you want to look, then match a top and shoes. It sounds obvious, but it got rid of about 80% of that "I have nothing to wear" feeling. That's why everything below is organized by trouser type.
I haven't included underwear, socks, or gym clothes. For all of that, I stick to boring Uniqlo basics. I don't care how I look while deadlifting.
Straight dark blue jeans
Most versatile pant I own. Go with basically everything.
Baggy dark blue jeans
You need a fitted or structured top or the whole thing looks like you borrowed someone else's clothes. High rise helps. I've been rolling the hem to break up the volume. The winter version only really works when the puffer, liner, hoodie, or bomber is intentional and the boots are chunky enough to carry the weight.
Straight light blue wash jeans
Light wash reads way more casual than dark, so you need a darker or more saturated top or the outfit has no anchor. Denim-on-denim (denim jacket + light jeans) works but only if the shades are actually different. Someone on MFA told me "at least two shades apart" and that seems right.
Baggy light blue wash jeans
Straight black jeans
Black jeans read dressier than blue. They fade fast though — I ruined my first pair tossing them in a normal wash.
Baggy black jeans
All-black only works if you mix textures. Chunky knit over a smooth tee, matte boots against coated denim. Without that it's just a dark blob. And if the jeans are baggy, the top needs to be intentional or it reads pajamas. Shearling, quilted liners, cropped puffers, brushed flannel, heavy hoodies — that's the lane. Sleek minimal layering looks weird with these.
Straight khaki chinos
Straight off-white linen pants
Linen wrinkles. That's the whole thing with linen — you just accept it. Off-white is easier than pure white because you don't look like a cruise ship entertainer. Fit matters here though. Too much volume and it stops looking intentional. And don't wear a pure white top with these. The slight tone difference between white and off-white just looks like you failed at matching.
Straight olive green chinos
Olive + burgundy + cream might be my favorite combination in this whole thing. Olive just goes with everything — navy, camel, rust, white.
Shorts
Winter layering rules
After reading way too many winter-style threads and watching too many layering videos, the same rules kept showing up:
- Start thin. Tee, henley, OCBD, merino crewneck. Two lighter layers under a coat almost always look better than one huge sweater doing all the work.
- Let the coat decide the mood. Overcoat and peacoat read smarter. Field jacket, chore coat, waxed jacket, puffer read more casual.
- Texture saves boring colors. Charcoal, navy, olive, cream, black all work better in winter when one thing is chunky, one thing is smooth, and one thing looks a little rough.
- Boots do a lot of the heavy lifting. Chelsea boots, chukkas, lug-sole derbies, combat boots. Sneakers can work, but boots make cold-weather outfits look finished.
- One loud thing at a time. Big flannel, rust knit, burgundy sweater, patterned scarf — pick one and let everything else stay quiet.
Quick reference
Made these for myself because I kept forgetting what goes with what at 7am.
Color pairings
| Bottom | Best top colors | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Dark blue jeans | White, grey, black, navy, burgundy, pink, olive | Orange, bright blue |
| Light blue jeans | Navy, white, burgundy, olive, brown, cream | Light grey, light pastels |
| Black jeans | White, grey, olive, burgundy, camel, bold colors | Navy (too close), brown shoes |
| Khaki chinos | Navy, white, emerald, burgundy, light blue, pink | Yellow, gold, beige tops |
| Off-white linen | Navy, light blue, dusty rose, sage, tan | White, black |
| Olive chinos | White, navy, camel, cream, burgundy, rust | Bright green, neon |
| Shorts | White, navy, grey, pastels, linen textures | Dress shirts, heavy layers |
Footwear pairings
| Bottom | Casual | Smart-casual | Avoid |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dark blue jeans | White sneakers | Brown boots, loafers | Dress shoes |
| Light blue jeans | White sneakers, canvas | Brown boots, tan loafers | Black shoes |
| Black jeans | White or black sneakers | Black boots, black loafers | Brown shoes |
| Khaki chinos | White sneakers | Brown loafers, suede boots | Hiking boots |
| Off-white linen | Espadrilles, canvas | Tan loafers, woven leather | Heavy boots |
| Olive chinos | White sneakers | Tan or brown loafers, chukkas | Black sneakers |
| Shorts | Canvas sneakers, loafers | Espadrilles, boat shoes | Dress shoes, boots |
Subscribe to my newsletter
Stay up to date
Get notified when I publish new articles and tutorials.
Comments